The South County Neighborhood Disaster Preparedness Project has been created to encourage citizens to prepare themselves, their families and their neighborhoods for a major disaster. Our primary goal is to educate families and neighborhoods to respond and function independently of outside services for the first five days following a major disaster. This goal is being accomplished by organizing our neighborhoods into coordinated disaster teams that will be activated when the city and county emergency services are unable to respond to all of the immediate needs of its citizens following a major disaster.

The Board of Directors of the South County Neighborhood Disaster Preparedness Project has been in existence since January of 1996. In conjunction with the City of Morgan Hill, Office of Emergency Services, we are looking for persons who will accept a challenge and want to start organizing their neighborhood for a Major Disaster.

Paul Staudenmaier, Chair

Morgan Hill Police Department Office of Emergency Services

Santa Clara County Office of Emergency Services

The City of Morgan Hill was incorporated in 1906 and is located in the Southern Santa Clara Valley. The valley at this point is three to four miles wide and formed by the Santa Cruz Mountains to the west and the Diablo Mountain Range to the east. Morgan Hill encompasses an area of approximately 9.4 square miles and is approximately 12 miles south of central San Jose, 10 miles north of Gilroy, and 15 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean. U.S. Highway 101 bisects the valley and is the major transportation corridor providing access to northern Santa Clara County and the San Francisco Bay Area to the north, and Monterey and San Benito Counties to the south. U.S. Highway 101 follows the historic route of El Camino Real and formerly ran through the center of Morgan Hill as the Monterey Highway. This situation was changed by the completion in October 1984 of a segment of the South Valley Freeway. Starting at Cochrane Road in Morgan Hill, 101 now runs parallel to and east of Monterey Highway, intersecting Monterey Highway - the old U.S. 101 route south of Gilroy.

At the time of Morgan Hill’s incorporation, it had a population of approximately 1,500. The City’s early economic base was centered around agriculture. Its commercial growth was along Monterey Highway due to the fact that until late 1984, Monterey Highway was also the U.S. Highway 101 route. From its beginning, Morgan Hill grew at a moderate and steady pace for the subsequent half of a century. During the post World War II period, the City very slowly began its transformation from an agricultural service center to a suburban residential community. However, growth accelerated significantly in the 1970's as Silicon Valley developed and workers were attracted to Morgan Hill’s small town, family atmosphere and more reasonable housing prices. From a population of 5,579 in 1970 the number of City residents more than tripled to 17,076 persons in 1980. Since 1990, the City’s population has increased at an average rate of 2.5%. As of January 1, 1997, the City’s population is recorded at 29,246 persons.

The natural hazards in the Morgan Hill area include earthquake, flooding, landslides, drought, fire - both urban and wildland, cold weather freezing, and dam failure.

Both ‘Leroy Anderson’ (1950) and ‘Elmer J. Chesbro’ (1955) are earth, clay and rock fill dams with 91,280 and 8,090 acre feet capacity respectively. The defined watercourses which flow through Morgan Hill are Llagas, Coyote, Edmundson, West Little Llagas, Corralitos, Paradise, Tennant, Maple, and Foothill Creeks. The area is unusual in that creeks originate in both the Diablo Range to the east and in the Santa Cruz Mountains to the west. Waters originating in the area are conveyed to Monterey Bay via the Pajaro River or to San Francisco Bay via Coyote Creek. With the natural flow of water into the South Santa Clara Basin, the propensity for flooding becomes a yearly reality depending on rainfall amounts and duration.

There are three major faults running through South Santa Clara County. The San Andreas fault runs along the Santa Cruz mountains to the west. The Sergeant fault comes off the San Andreas fault in Morgan Hill and runs in a diagonal fashion south towards the center of the valley. Calaveras fault runs along the base of the Diablo range to the east of Morgan Hill. All three faults are part of the San Andreas system and could slip separately or concurrently.

Much of Morgan Hills’ terrain is a mixture of urban and rural wildland. Dry conditions, high winds, thick brush, residences in wildlands and inaccessible terrain combine to put several areas at risk.

Heavy winter rains increase the growth of ground cover and brush each year, thereby increasing the available fuel for such fires each summer when the water table recedes leaving the surrounding hills very dry.

Some businesses in Morgan Hill are dependant on the use of hazardous materials. They use a variety of chemicals, some of them hazardous, to make their product. Because these chemicals are used, stored and transported daily it is possible that Morgan Hill could experience a chemical spill that could effect a large area.

Chemicals are being transported by rail to other cities. An accident or derailment or defective equipment could possibly effect a large area that would necessitate the evacuation of certain areas within the city.

On a smaller scale, many household products contain chemicals that are poisonous, corrosive, flammable and / or chemically reactive. These products may topple over and spill during an earthquake, causing a hazardous situation in the home.

The City of Morgan Hill is in direct line with the final approach pattern for San Jose Airport as well as San Francisco Airport. There have been several airline crashes to the north of Morgan Hill over the past 20 years.

Your family could be anywhere when the next disaster strikes - at work, at school, in the car or just taking a walk. Families can cope with disaster by planning ahead. Knowing what to do can help your family deal with fear and uncertainty. By planning and practicing what to do, your family will be able to react correctly and spontaneously at the first sign of danger.

• Store your vital documents in a safe place.
• Make an inventory list of your household items.
• Create a family emergency plan.
• Teach your children about disasters and what to expect from them.
• Make provisions for the elderly and disabled.
• Make provisions for your pets - they are part of your family.

Earthquakes, fires, storms and other disasters can destroy important documents. After a disaster, you may need financial assistance and will want to document any property loss for insurance and income tax purposes. Having ready access to the documents necessary for completing application forms, as well as those which could be difficult to replace, will eliminate undue delay and frustration.

• Take a few minutes and record this important family information.
• Identify your vital documents now, before a disaster occurs. Store your important documents in a safe location, preferably in a fire-resistant container, safe deposit box or with a friend or relative who lives at least 100 miles away.

They can also be stored in water-tight sealable plastic bags inside the refrigerator or freezer. It is a good idea to have two sets of your important documents stored in different places so that if one set is damaged, you will have a backup.

In the event of a fire, flood, earthquake, hazardous material spill or other disaster, it may be necessary for you to quickly evacuate your home. By planning and practicing what to do before you need to, you will help yourself and your family to react correctly and spontaneously at the first sign of danger.

If you are told to immediately evacuate, you will have little time to think about what to do. What you take depends upon how much notification you have, how long you will be gone, why you are leaving and how you are leaving. To help you prepare to respond before the disaster strikes, take a few minutes to complete this list.

If you are told to leave immediately, do so. Your life is more important than property. During the 1991 Oakland - Berkeley hills fire for example, many people were able to leave with only the clothes on their backs. A few residents were able to take their pets and some sentimental items. But for some, the fire moved too quickly and they lost more than property - they lost their lives.

USING THE SYMBOLS:

• Draw the floor plan of your residence.
• Draw at least two escape routes from each room.
• Identify where your emergency supplies, first aid kits and fire extinguishers are kept.
• Identify utility (gas, water and electric) shut-off valve locations.
• Include your family’s reunion location outside the home.
• Conduct fire and emergency evacuation drills.

^ EXIT

G GAS

W WATER

E ELECTRICITY

* MEETING PLACE

S SUPPLIES

F FIRE EXTINGUISHER

Decide which items are the most important to be taken with you and choose only those that you could carry. Don’t forget to include the less obvious items such as, cash, dentures, house and car keys, medicine, pet food, photo albums and other sentimental items. Keep in mind that there will probably be limited space at a shelter or you may have to carry them with you.

• Make a list of other items you would take if you were able.
• Choose the items you would like to take if you have access to a vehicle.
• Specify those tasks you would like to complete (if there is time) prior to leaving (shutting off utilities, locking your home, making arrangements for your pets, etc.)

If you must leave your home, follow instructions given by local officials and do not return until directed to do so.

Wear protective clothing and sturdy shoes.

Take your emergency supplies, first aid kit, and important documents with you.

Pets will not be allowed in designated American Red Cross shelters. It will be necessary for you to make a special plan for someone out of the area to take care of your pets if it becomes necessary. Take only dry food as canned food may spoil and be sure that you have water for your pet.

Leave a note stating the date and time you left and where you went.

Use only travel routes specified by local authorities - don’t use shortcuts because certain areas may be impassable or dangerous.

Listen to your battery - powered radio and follow the instructions of local emergency officials. Tune your radio to 1610 AM on your dial for emergency information specific to the Morgan Hill area. Emergency announcements will also be broadcast on the local Public Broadcast television station, Channel 34.

Disasters have a good chance of occurring when your family is not gathered together. The children may be at school. You may be at work, the shopping center or the theater. To prepare for these possible separations, take a few minutes and develop a reunion plan. This plan will help you get back together, or if that is not possible, to let each other know you are okay.

• Choose one place near your home in case of a sudden emergency, such as a fire.
• Choose at least two or three places outside your neighborhood in case you cannot return home. Possibilities include neighbor’s, friend’s or relative’s homes, local schools, churches, parks or community centers. If you arrive home and no one is there, it will give you some places to start looking.
• Choose a friend or relative who lives at least 100 miles away who can be contacted by all family members if it becomes impossible to reach the reunion locations. You can report to them where and how you are and learn where and how other family members are as well. Be sure each family member carries the contact person’s name and phone number with them.

Two keys to family safety are planning and practicing exactly what you will do when it happens.

Before an earthquake walk through your home together with your family.

• Search for hazards.
• Discuss where and how you can protect yourself in each room.
• Practice by physically placing yourself in these locations.
• Practice "Duck, Cover and Hold" earthquake drills regularly (every four to six months). Call out "earthquake" and discuss what each family member did correctly or what they did incorrectly.

STAY CALM! Move away from glass doors and windows. Duck, cover and hold. Duck under a sturdy piece of furniture or under a doorway. Do not duck under beds or other objects that could collapse. Cover your head with your hands and arms to protect yourself from flying glass or falling objects. Hold onto the furniture. If it moves, move with it. Stay under it until the shaking stops.

IF YOU CANNOT WALK - CRAWL OR ROLL. During an earth quake while the ground is shaking it is difficult to walk without falling. To avoid injury from falling, drop to the ground and crawl or roll to a safer area until the shaking stopps.

IF YOU BRACE YOURSELF IN A DOORWAY, be careful of the door as it could swing towards you during the shaking.

IF YOU CANNOT GET UNDER a TABLE OR IN a DOORWAY, sit down next to an inside corner wall and protect your head with your arms.

AVOID HEAVY STANDING OBJECTS, such as bookcases.

IF YOU ARE INDOORS, STAY THERE. Do not run outside. Quickly move to one of the safe places you have identified.

IF YOU ARE OUTSIDE, STAY OUTSIDE. Move away from power lines and poles, trees, tall buildings, walls and chimneys.

IF YOU ARE IN A VEHICLE, stop in an open area away from trees, power poles, overpasses, bridges and tall buildings. Stay in the vehicle until the shaking stops. If electrical lines fall onto your vehicle, stay inside.

Immediately check for injuries and fires. Wear sturdy shoes for protection from debris or broken glass. Use a flashlight. Do not light a match until you are positive there are no gas leaks. Check utilities, appliances, and the sewer line for damage before using them. Listen to the radio for emergency information. Do not use the telephone except for emergencies. Non-emergency calls may overload the circuits, preventing others from reporting emergencies. Expect after shocks.

Your children are less likely to experience prolonged fear or anxiety if they know what to expect after the disaster. Include your children in the preparation phases of your family’s emergency plan.

• Talk about your own experiences and/or read aloud about disasters, such as earthquakes. Local libraries have a number of good books on earthquakes and other disasters.
• Ask the staff at your children’s school about the school’s disaster plan.
• Provide your children with the name of a relative, neighbor or friend who will care for them until the family can be reunited.
• Help your children assemble their own emergency supply kit.

Encourage your children to express their feelings of fear. Give them a chance to talk and ask questions.

Your children may need both verbal and physical reassurance that everything will be alright. Hug them frequently. Close physical contact is comforting and confirms that being scared is a normal reaction and everything is going to be O.K.! Remember, you need this reassurance just as much as your children do.

Include your children in any clean-up activities. It is comforting for children to watch the household begin to assume its normal functions, and to have a job to do.

Have your children write a story or draw a picture.

Explain to your children what has happened.

Replace your children’s toys and security items (blankets, etc.) as soon as possible.

Allow your children to mourn the loss of a friend or home or pet.

After acknowledging their fears, point out their abilities and the things they can to for themselves and others. Making them part of the recovery process enables them to feel less helpless.

• Tell your neighbors now if you may not move well or quickly in an emergency Have a whistle or siren available to summon help in an emergency.
• Know where the safe places are in each room of your home, such as under a sturdy desk or table, in a doorway, or in the corner of an inside wall.
• Plan how you will get out of each room if the doorway is blocked. Arrange your furniture to allow a clear pathway.
• If you are vision-impaired, keep an extra cane as your guide dog may be injured or too frightened to help you. Don’t forget to store extra food and supplies for your dog.
• Keep your wheelchair, walker, cane and crutches near you and if possible, store extras in various locations. Family members should know where these items are stored.
• If you use any life support equipment, make sure it is fastened securely to prevent it from falling over. If the equipment runs on electricity, you may consider purchasing a portable generator.
• If you use any battery-operated equipment, have extra batteries. Also, store extra hearing aid batteries.
• Put security lights in various rooms in your home. These lights plug into the electrical wall outlets and light up automatically if there is a power failure. They can provide light for 4-6 hours.
• If you are hearing-impaired, install a fire and smoke alarm designed for the hearing impaired. a portable battery operated TV will allow access to instructions during an emergency. Have paper and pencils available to communicate with others.
• Purchase a whistle to alert others in case you need assistance.

Move to one of the areas of safety mentioned previously. Stay away from tall, unsecured furniture, glass doors and windows, fireplaces and hanging objects.

If you are in a wheelchair, stay in it. Move to a doorway, or other area of safety. Lock the wheels and cover your head with your arms to protect yourself from falling debris.

REMAIN CALM! If you are trapped inside, make as much noise as possible to attract attention to yourself. Use your whistle to alert others.

If you have a guide or hearing dog, keep the dog confined or securely harnessed as it may become frightened and could run away.

After a major disaster, the City will not be able to respond to all of the immediate needs of its citizens. Your family may be without help for hours or even days. Once the disaster hits, your family won’t have time to shop or search for supplies. If your emergency supplies have been gathered in advance, your family will be better prepared if you must evacuate, or if you are confined to your home.

• Store one gallon of water per person per day in a sturdy plastic container.
• Maintain a three to five day supply of food.
• Assemble emergency supplies for your family.
• Prepare portable disaster supply kits for your car and workplace.
• Store your supplies in a safe, accessible location.

Water is one of the most important survival necessities after an earthquake or other major disaster. A person can survive weeks without food, but only a few days without water.

Store one gallon of water per person per day. It is a good idea to store enough for seven days however it is essential that you prepare for at least three days. If your water supply runs low, never ration water. Drink the amount you need today and try to find more for tomorrow. You can minimize the amount of water your body needs by reducing activity and staying cool.

Water should be stored in sturdy plastic containers, preferable opaque. Avoid containers that will decompose or will break easily like glass bottles. Chlorine bleach bottles work well. Plastic juice and milk containers are less desirable because the plastic becomes brittle over time and can crack, causing a leak. You can also use food-grade plastic buckets or drums. Be sure the container is thoroughly washed before using and never use a container that stored a toxic substance. Store the water away from flammable, hazardous and toxic substances. These substances often will penetrate plastic and contaminate the water. The water should be stored in a safe and easily accessible location. Cool, dry and dark locations (closet, garage, under a bed, behind a couch) are best.

In the event you cannot use your stored supply of water, you can use the water in your hot water heater, in your home’s water pipes and in melted ice cubes. Use water from the toilet tank (not the bowl) only after you have exhausted all other sources. Remember to purify the water. Avoid using the toilet tank water if a chemical additive was placed in the toilet tank.

If the water heater hasn’t fallen over, you can use the water. Be sure the gas or electricity is off and then open the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Start the water flowing by turning off the water intake valve and turning on a hot water faucet in the home.

Caution: Do not turn on the gas or electricity when the tank is empty. Heating an empty water heater can not only damage the water heater but can also start a fire.

To use the water remaining in your home’s water pipes, start by turning off the water at the main valve. Then, let air into the plumbing by turning on the highest faucet in the house and drain the water from the lowest faucet.

If you need to seek water outside your home, you can use these sources after purifying it:

• Rainwater
• Streams, rivers and other moving bodies of water
• Ponds, lakes and natural springs. Avoid water with floating material, an odor or dark color.

Since contaminated water can contain microorganisms that cause diseases, water should be purified before using. There are several ways to purify water. Before purifying, strain any sediment through layers of paper towels or clean cloths. Three of the easiest purification methods are boiling, chlorination and purification tablets.

Boiling is the safest method of purifying water.

1. Bring the water to rolling boil for 10 minutes.

2. Let the water cool before drinking.

3. If the water tastes flat, put oxygen back into it by pouring the water back and forth between two containers.

Chlorination uses liquid chlorine bleach to kill the microorganisms.

1. Use liquid bleach that contains 5.25% sodium hypochlorite and no soap.

2. Use the chart outlined below the proper dosage amount.

3. Stir the water and let it stand for 30 minutes. If the water does not taste and smell of chlorine at this point, add another dose and let stand for another 15 minutes.

4. Use a medicine dropper or if one is not available, use a Spoon and a thin strip of paper or cloth (approximately 1/4" by 2") Put the strip in the spoon with an end hanging down about ½" below the scoop of the spoon. Place bleach in the spoon and carefully tip it. The drops will drip off the end of the strip.

Purification tablets work by releasing chlorine or iodine.

1. Follow the package directions for the proper dosage.

2. Usually one tablet is enough for one quart of clear water. Double the dose for cloudy water.

3. Remember to check the package for the expiration date. Some brands have a shelf life of two to three years.

4. The tablets are inexpensive and available at may sporting goods stores or drug stores.

5. Do not mix the chemicals. For example, do not use purification tablets if the water has been treated with chlorine bleach.

1. Hot water boilers - home heating systems.

2. Radiators

3. Water beds. Fungicides added to the water or chemical substances in the vinyl may cause the water to become undrinkable. The chemicals are not fully removed by purifiers.

4. Swimming pools. Use this water for bathing purposes only. Using pool water for drinking can be harmful because of the chemicals used to treat it.

A disaster can dramatically disrupt the food supply at any time, so plan to maintain at least a three to five day supply of food above your normal requirements. You may have plenty of food on hand right now, but check your supplies to make sure.

When storing food, it is not necessary to buy dehydrated or other types of emergency food. Canned foods, dry mixes and other supplies you already have on hand are good for a number of reasons:

• they do not require cooking or water for preparation;
• they can be kept with your regular supply; and
• with proper storage, most canned and dry food will remain fresh for about two years.

Remember to date each package and canned item so you will know when to rotate them into your normal food supply. This should be done once or twice a year.

• Your family will enjoy, especially the kids. It is best to serve familiar foods in stressful times.
• Require little or no cooking or refrigeration in case the utilities are disrupted.
• Come in cans or package sizes that contain portions small enough for one meal so the food will not be wasted.
• Have a long storage life.
• Need little or no water for preparation in case water service is disrupted.
• Will not increase thirst. (Avoid food with a high salt content.)
• Will meet the needs of family members who are on special diets.

How long food lasts depends on how it is stored. The ideal location is a cool, dry, dark place. The best temperature is 40 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. High temperatures contribute to the rapid spoiling of most types of food.

Keep food away from petroleum products, such as gasoline and oil. Some food products absorb their smell.

Protect food from rodents and insects. Items stored in boxes or in paper cartons will keep longer if they are heavily wrapped or stored in metal containers.

Use perishable food in your refrigerator or freezer before using food in your emergency kit. Be sure any food you eat that has been stored for long periods of time is safe to eat. Discard cans that bulge at the end or are leaking.

DO NOT EAT OR DRINK ANYTHING FROM OPEN CONTAINERS LOCATED NEAR SHATTERED GLASS.

Using the shelf life chart as a guideline, maintain a three to five day supply of the following food groups for each family member.

1. Canned stew, spaghetti, corned beef hash, soup, beans, tuna, sardines, meats, fruits and vegetables.

2. Drinks such as canned juices, soda, coffee, tea, bullion and cocoa.

3. Crackers and spreads for crackers such as peanut butter, canned meat and cheese.

4. Salt, pepper, sugar, catsup and mustard.

 5. Hard candies, raisins, canned nuts, instant puddings, dried fruit, seeds, granola bars, etc.

6. Dried and / or evaporated milk.

7. Ready-to-eat cereals.

8. Oatmeal cookies or crackers.

______________________________________________________________

SHELF LIFE FOR COMMON FOODS (IN MONTHS)

______________________________________________________________

Beverages - powdered 24 Mustard - unopened 24

Biscuit, brownie, muffin mix 9 Nuts - canned 12

Bouillon cubes or granules 24 Pancake mix 6-9

Cake mixes 1-2 Pasta - tightly covered 24+

Catsup - unopened 12 Peanut butter 12

Cereals Pudding mix 12

Ready to eat 6-12 Rice mixes 6

Uncooked, in original pkg 12 Rice, white - tightly covered 24+

Uncooked, in metal cont. 24 Salad dressings - unopened 18

Cocoa mixes 12 Salad oil - unopened 6

Coffee, tea 18 Sauce and gravy mixes 6-12

Fruits Soups

Canned citrus fruits/juice 12 Condensed 12

Canned other fruits/juice 12 Dry mixes 12

Dried, in metal container 6 Tuna and other canned fish 12

Gelatin 18 Vegetables

Hard candy and gum 12 Canned tomatoes 12

Honey - tightly covered 12 Canned sauerkraut 12

Jams /syrups tightly covered 12 Canned others 18

Meat, poultry-canned no fish 18 Instant potatoes 18

Milk - evaporated and dry 6

TYPE OF FOOD 72 HR SUPPLY 2 WEEK SUPPLY USEFUL INFORMATION

Canned meat, fish 6 servings 28 servings One serving equals: 2-3 oz. meat

poultry poultry, fish 3/4 oz. dried meat

Canned soup 5 oz. Condensed soup

Nuts / peanut butter ½ cup nuts, 4 tbsp. Peanut butter

Fruits and 10 ½ cup servings 46 servings One serving equals: 4 oz. canned

vegetables fruit or vegetables ½ oz. dried

fruit 4-8 oz. canned juices

Cereals and baked 10-12 servings 46 servings One serving equals: 1 bread, roll

goods Or pancake ½ to 1 oz. dry cereal

1 oz. quick-cook cereal 1 oz. crackers 1 oz. Cookies; 3/4 oz. uncooked pasta 6 oz. cooked pasta 3/4 oz. rice

Fats and oils Up to 1 pound or Choose types that do not require

or 1 pint per refrigeration

person

Using the following checklist as a guide, assemble emergency supplies for your family. As your family’s needs change, so should your emergency supply kit. Once a year, check your supplies. Replace the batteries, test the cooking and lighting equipment, update the clothes, etc.

• Aluminum foil
• Barbecues, camp stoves, hibachis, Sterno stoves, etc.
• Fuel for your cooking equipment (propane, charcoal oil, kerosene, butane, white gas, etc.)
• Manual can and bottle opener.
• Matches (Use waterproof matches or store regular matches in a waterproof container. Waterproof matches are available at camping and sporting goods stores.)
• Paper plates and cups
• Paper towels
• Plastic eating utensils
• Storage containers with sealable lids
• Utility knife - Swiss army knife

After an earthquake, do not use your fireplace for cooking until the chimney has been inspected for cracks and damages. Sparks may escape into the attic through an undetected crack and start a fire.

Cooking Note: It is important to always use your cooking equipment outdoors in an area that is well ventilated since fumes consume oxygen.

• Flashlights (include extra batteries and bulbs)
• Light sticks. These chemical safety lights are easy to use and do not require batteries or an ignition source to operate. They provide light for a short period of time and can be used only once. They are small, easy to store and come in various colors: yellow, red, green, orange etc. They have a shelf life of about 3 years. The low intensity Light sticks provide light for 8 hours. The high intensity light sticks give light for only 30 minutes however, they are 3-4 time brighter than the low intensity Light sticks. Since they are non-toxic, spark proof, wind proof, waterproof, and non-corrosive, they can be used in situations where there may be a gasoline, natural gas or toxic chemical spill. Light sticks are available at many sporting goods stores.
• Lanterns. Include extra fuel and supplies.
• Candles

Lighting Note: Always check for gas leaks before using matches, lanterns or candles. Do not use them if there is a leak. Once you have determined the gas is not leaking, use them only in a well-ventilated area since they consume oxygen.

• Ax
• Fire extinguisher (A-B-C TYPE)
• Plastic bags and sheeting
• Screwdriver
• Wire cutters
• Broom
• Hammer
• Plywood
• Shovel
• Work gloves for all family members
• Dust masks
• Nails and screws
• Rope
• Tape (duct, etc.)

• Blankets
• Tent
• Sleeping bags
• Tarp

• Personal hygiene supplies - adapt these to meet your family’s needs: combs, shampoo, diapers, deodorant, soap, diaper wipes, pre-moistened towelettes, toothbrush, toothpaste; baby powder, sanitary napkins.
• Powdered chlorinated lime or agricultural lime (Agricultural lime is available at garden supply stores).
• Water tight container with a tight-fitting lid (Pail, bucket garbage can, etc.)
• Disinfectant
• Household chlorine bleach
• Plastic garbage bags
• Toilet paper
• Sealable plastic bags (Zip lock-type - Gallon size).
• Twist ties or rubber bands

Portable camp toilets, porta-potties or recreational vehicle toilets can be used for toilets. If these are not available, make an emergency toilet from a water tight container. Line the container with two heavy duty plastic garbage bags. Add disinfectant, household chlorine bleach or powdered chlorinated lime to deodorize and disinfect. Do not urinate into the plastic bags as urine weakens the plastic. Use a separate water tight container for urination.

In an emergency, human waste can be buried. Dig a hole two to three feet deep and deposit the waste. Add a thin layer of disinfectant and soil each time it is used.

• Books, games and toys
• Denture supplies contact lens cases and solutions
• Eyeglasses - store an extra pair
• Medication - prescription and non-prescription (aspirin, allergy, etc.)
• Money - cash and coins
• Paper and pencil

• Rain gear
• Thermal underwear
• Sturdy shoes - keep a pair near the bed to protect your feet from broken glass, nails, etc.
• One complete change of clothing for each family member. Do not forget extra socks and shoes.

• Carriers and portable kennels
• Food and water bowls
• Non-perishable pet food
• Collars and leashes
• Medication

• Assemble a first aid kit. The items suggested are only examples and should be tailored to meet your family’s needs.

Keep your first aid kit current. Some items have expiration dates. Use it regularly so you are familiar with what is in it.

Your supplies will be easy to carry and protected from water if you store them in a small tool or fishing tackle box. A backpack is convenient, however it is not waterproof.

• Antacids
• Antiseptic solution
• Antibiotic ointment for dressing wounds
• Aspirin (to reduce swelling) and non-aspirin tablets
• Diarrhea medicine
• Laxatives
• Vitamin supplements
• Eye drops
• Hydrogen peroxide to wash and disinfect wounds
• Individually wrapped alcohol swabs (available at drugstores)
• Prescriptions from doctor for any long term medications (keep these current)
• Syrup of Ipecac (to induce vomiting)

• Ace Bandages
• Butterfly bandages
• Adhesive tape roll - ½" or 1" wide
• Bandage, sterile roll - 2" or 4" wide
• Clean sheets torn into strips
• Cotton balls and cotton tipped swabs
• Plastic strip bandages - assorted sizes
• Rolled gauze - 1 each of 1", 2" and 3"
• Triangular bandages (three each 36" x 36" x 50")

• Ammonia inhalant (smelling salts)
• Anti-bacterial soap
• Bar soap
• First aid book (i.e. "Standard First Aid and Personal Safety" from the American Red Cross).
• Instant heat packs
• Instant cold packs for sprains and burns
• Latex gloves
• Medicine dropper
• Metallic space blankets
• Needle and thread
• Paint brush (natural bristle for removing glass pieces)
• Plastic bags
• Plastic spoons
• Pocket knife
• Pre-moistened towelettes
• Safety pins
• Sanitary napkins individually wrapped (make adequate trauma dressings).
• Scissors
• Skin lotion
• Splinting materials
• Sunscreen lotion
• Thermometer
• Tissues
• Tweezers
• Waterproof matches
• Writing materials - pen, pencil and paper

If your first aid supplies are destroyed or become inaccessible after a disaster, you can use some common household items you may already have available. Bandages, dressings, splints and stretchers can be made from everyday items.

Bandages / Dressings

• Clean rags, towels, sheets and linens
• diapers - disposable and regular
• handkerchief, sanitary napkins, scarf

Splints

• Boards, brooms, oars, straight sticks, umbrellas
• pieces of corrugated cardboard bent to form a three sided box
• pillows, rolled blankets, newspaper or magazines.

Dressings and Bandages can be held with:

• Belts, handkerchiefs, neckties
• Nylon stockings, plastic bags, rope
• Safety pins, string, strips of cloth torn from shirts or sheets

When buying medical supplies, remember to check the expiration dates. Buy only fresh supplies for the longest shelf life.

Medical information and prescriptions can be stored in the refrigerator. This provides excellent protection from fires.

Many of us spend several hours in our vehicles commuting, running errands, etc. In addition, we also spend several hours at work. A disaster can occur at any time, including while you are in your vehicle or at work. Depending upon the situation, you may need to stay in your vehicle or at work for several hours.

Assemble a disaster kit for your car using the following items, adding those personal items as necessary. Storing these supplies in a small backpack will make them convenient to carry if you have to walk home.

• Battery -operated radio
• Blanket
• Bottled water
• Comfortable clothes and shoes
• Fire extinguisher: A, B, C, type
• Flares
• Flashlight batteries
• A good book
• Heavy work gloves
• Local maps and compass
• Money ( cash and coins)
• Personal hygiene needs
• Snack type, nutritious foods - dried fruits, nuts, granola bars, crackers, seeds, jerky, etc.
• Toilet tissue, newspapers and zip-type plastic bags
• Tools - screwdriver and pliers
• Your disaster plan or what other family members are doing and where they may be contacted.

Assemble a work disaster kit with some or all of the following:

• Battery-operated radio
• Blanket
• Boiled water
• Comfortable clothes and shoes
• Emergency instructions
• Essential medication
• First aid book
• First aid kit
• Flashlight and extra batteries
• Heavy work gloves
• Snack-type nutritious foods
• Toilet tissue and zip-type bags

Decide where and how to store your emergency water and food and supplies. This decision is just as important as deciding to gather the supplies.

Store your supplies in a sturdy container

Your emergency supplies can be stored in a large, covered trash container. They can also be placed in a back pack, duffel bag or a box, however, these containers are not as sturdy and do not offer the same protection as a covered trash container. To protect items from moisture, place them in airtight plastic bags before putting them in the container.

For convenience it would be beneficial to buy a large covered trash container that has wheels. Once your container is fully supplied it will be quite heavy. It will be easier for you if you don’t have to lift or carry it.

Store your supplies in a safe, accessible location.

Your supplies will do you little good if you cannot get to them or they are destroyed or damaged during the disaster. To prevent all of your supplies from being damaged or destroyed, consider storing them in different locations.

Storage locations should be cool, dry and dark. Some possible sites are:

• On a closet floor
• Behind a large piece of furniture (i.e., couch)
• Under a sturdy table or on a pallet in the garage
• Under a bed
• In a tool or garden shed

Avoid storing supplies in direct sunlight, near hazardous chemicals (gasoline, pesticides, etc.) in a location where heavy items could fall on top of them.

Taking steps to make your home safe is one of the most important tasks your family should complete prior to a disaster. There are many hazards in our homes that could cause us harm during a disaster. Death, injuries and damage are often caused by falling debris, collapsing structures, fires, spilled hazardous chemicals, etc. Eliminating these hazards offers better protection for your family and home.

IDENTIFY, SECURE AND CORRECT ANY POTENTIAL HAZARDS IN YOUR HOME

EXAMINE THE STRUCTURAL SAFETY OF YOUR HOME

LOCATE YOUR UTILITY SHUT - OFF VALVES

STORE HAZARDOUS HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS IN A SAFE LOCATION

 INSTALL SMOKE DETECTORS AND LEARN HOW TO USE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER

Imagine what it would be like if your home had wheels and was speeding down a twisting bumpy road. Your home would bend and sway, causing the interior contents and exterior structures (chimneys, roofs, etc.) To fall or collapse. A major earthquake would have a similar effect.

Take 30 minutes and walk through your home with all family members. Locate and identify potential hazards by using this worksheet. Correct any hazards that you may find . The following suggestions may be a good place to start.

The typical water heater weighs about 450 pounds when full. Such a massive object resists being moved suddenly. In an earthquake, the floor on which it is standing tends to move out from under the heater, causing it to topple over. This movement also breaks the rigid gas and water line connectors.

Is your water heater securely fastened to the wall studs with a strap or plumber’s tape?

To secure your water heater:

• Wrap steel plumber’s tape around the entire heater at least twice. Then secure the tape to two different wall studs with two inch or longer lag screws.
• Install flexible gas and water connectors.

These services can be explained by your local P.G. & E. Office. In some areas this service is provided upon the purchase of a new home. They can also be done by an independent plumber if you are unable to do so.

A major earthquake has the potential of causing substantial damage to your possessions. A large portion of the actual damage in an earthquake is non-structural (furniture, light fixtures, supplies, etc.) A general rule is: If the length or width of an item is less than two-thirds the height, it may overturn in an earthquake.

Identify top-heavy, free standing furniture such as, bookcases and china cabinets which could topple in an earthquake.

How you secure your furniture will depend upon its value, location and your imagination. Listed below are a few ideas to help you get started.

• Secure your tall or top-heavy furniture by using:

"L" brackets, corner brackets or anodized aluminum molding to attach tall or top-heavy furniture to the wall.

Corner brackets or eye bolts to secure items located a short distance from the wall.

• Attach a wooden or metal guardrail on open shelves to keep items from sliding or falling off. Fishing line can also be used and is less visible.
• Place heavy and / or large objects on lower shelves. Securely fasten or move these objects to lower locations

Identify appliances which would move enough to rupture gas or electrical lines.

Secure your large appliances with flexible cable, braided wire or other strapping material.

Because the floor will be moving and shifting under your appliances, remember to allow for a small amount of flexibility.

Install flexible gas connectors on all gas appliances. This will significantly reduce your chances of having a major fire following an earthquake.

Identify kitchen and bathroom cabinet doors which will not stay closed during heavy shaking.

Secure your cabinets or cupboard doors by installing any one of the following latches:

Automatic latches

Bolt Action

Guillotine

Hook and Eye

Spring loaded or heavy duty magnetic latches help secure cabinet contents. The purpose of the latches is to keep cabinet doors closed and prevent dishes and other items from falling and breaking.

During earthquakes, glass from windows can break and send dangerous pieces flying in all directions. You can greatly reduce the hazard potential of flying glass by using transparent window film (commonly used to reduce solar heat and glare).

A 2-4 mil thick piece of film places on the inner surface of the glass can make the glass stronger and shatter resistant. The film’s adhesive holds the broken glass fragments together. Since the film keeps the glass intact, it is a temporary substitute for window boarding.

When a major earthquake strikes, you may be severely injured by falling and flying objects. Remove heavily-framed pictures and mirrors from above beds, couches and chairs. Determine whether the full swing of your hanging plants and lamps will strike a window, and if they will, move them.

Relocate these or securely mount them.

Secure pictures and/or mirrors by placing angle screws on both sides, the top and the bottom or secure these with wire through an eyebolt screwed into the stud.

Identify hanging plants, especially those in heavy baskets, and hanging lights which are near windows. Move these to a safer location or securely fasten them to the walls or ceiling.

Secure hanging objects by closing the opening in the hook or with wire through an eyebolt screwed into the stud.

Identify electronic equipment (stereos, televisions, VCR’s, computers, etc.) and appliances, (microwaves, toasters, etc.) which may slide off their shelves. Secure these items by using double-stick tape or velcro-type fasteners, or provide a restraining edge on the cabinet or shelf.

Identify poisons, toxic chemicals or solvents in breakable containers which are located in high or dangerous locations. Move these to a safe, well-ventilated storage area. Keep them away from your water storage and out of the reach of children and pets.

Now that you have secured things inside your home, take a few minutes to examine the structural safety of the house itself. If your house is of conventional wood construction, it will probably be relatively resistant to earthquake damage, particularly if it is a single story. But this is the case only if the roof, ceilings, walks, chimneys and foundation remain connected.

These suggestions will take time and money, but implementing them will ensure even greater stability for your home and its contents. Consider using a licensed professional to perform the structural work.

Check to see if your house or garage is securely fastened to the foundation. Some homes constructed before the mid-1950s and most built before the 1940s do not have bolts securing the wood structure to the concrete foundation.

If your home is not bolted to the foundation, take the following steps:

• Using a hammer drill and carbide bit, drill a hole through the sill plate into the foundation. The holes should be approximately six feet apart.
• Drop a 12" x 7" expansion bolt into each hole and tighten the bolt. A large washer should also be used.

Inspect your house for inadequately braced cripple walls located between the frame and foundation. If they are exposed, they are a weak link in the house construction and are subject to collapse following a major earthquake. Nail plywood sheeting into the vertical studs to strengthen the walls. Remember to also check the garage, particularly if it is supporting living quarters.

Chimneys are often constructed of unreinforced masonry which makes them vulnerable to earthquakes.

Check the brick mortar for signs of deterioration.

If the chimney is not tied to the house (most are not), use metal straps to tie the chimney to the ceiling joists.

Protect yourself from falling chimney bricks that might penetrate the roof by reinforcing the ceiling surrounding the chimney with 3/4" plywood nailed to ceiling joists.

Check the roof and chimney for loose tiles and bricks.

After an earthquake, do not use your fireplace until the chimney has been inspected by a professional for cracks and other damages. Sparks may escape into your attic through an undetected crack and start a fire.

Strengthen the areas of connection between joists, beams, posts and plates using the following hardware:

"T" and "L" straps

Mending plates

Joist hangers

Twin post caps

Nails and lag screws

Pay particular attention to exposed framing in garages, basements, porches and patio covers.

Mobile homes suffer the most damage from falling off their supports. To reduce this damage. Leave the wheels on to limit its fall and:

• Check the foundation to make sure that it has been reinforced and that the undercarriage has been securely tied to the foundation. Without this, the mobile home may be thrown off its foundation even during small tremors.
• Tie double-wide mobile homes together. The two units are generally of different weights. When an earthquake strikes, they tend to react differently and pull apart.

Structural support bracing systems are commercially available. Designs and costs vary, but a good bracing system can be a worthwhile investment. If you are interested in a seismic bracing system, contact your mobile home owner’s association, local mobil home dealer or check the phone book for vendors.

WITH YOUR FAMILY:

Locate your gas, water and electric utility shut off valves.

Learn how and when to turn off the utilities

TEACH all family members how and when to turn off the utilities.

Attach an adjustable wrench to the gas meter. You will not want to take time to find one after a disaster. You may use a pipe wrench, crescent wrench or a slotted wrench designed specifically for turning off the utilities.

Consider marking the shut-off valve with reflective tape to identify it in the dark.

The main shut-off valve is located on the inlet pipe next to your gas meter. Using a wrench, turn the valve one quarter turn in either direction so that it is perpendicular to the pipe.

After a major disaster, shut off the gas immediately ONLY IF you smell a strong odor of gas, you hear gas escaping from a broken or disconnected pipe or if you notice a large consumption of gas registering on the gas meter. (If the dials on the gas meter are spinning around rapidly, there is probably a leak.)

If leaking gas starts to burn do not attempt to put the flame out. If possible move other flammable material away from the fire. If it is safe to do so, turn off the gas.

Do not use matches, lighters, open flame appliances or operate electrical switches until you are sure there is no gas present. Sparks from electrical switches could ignite leaking gas fumes and cause an explosion.

*CAUTION*

Once the gas is shut off at the meter, DO NOT try to turn it back on. Call Pacific Gas and Electric Company or a qualified plumber to restore gas service.

After a major disaster, check for damage to the wiring and shut off the electricity if you suspect a problem. Sparks from electrical switches could ignite leaking gas and cause an explosion. You will probably have one of two types of electrical breakers in your home; either a circuit breaker or pull-out cartridge fuse box.

If you plan to use a portable electric generator, you need to be familiar with the current law regulating their use. If the generator is capable of being connected temporarily to your electrical system (which is normally supplied by PG&E) it must be connected only after opening your main switch. This disconnects your electrical system from PG&E. The purpose of this requirement is to isolate your electrical system from PG&E’S power lines. If there are PG&E crews working on the lines, they won’t know if a generator is being used nearby. If the electricity is going through the line from the generator, it can seriously injure or kill the work crews. Also, if the generator is connected this way, it can be damaged or destroyed when power is restored.

The law requires that you notify the utility company (PG&E) if the location of any electric generator is used in a home or business.

Label the water main for quick identification. Consider using reflective tape to mark the shut-off valve to identify it in the dark.

After a major disaster, check for water leaks. Shut off the water ONLY IF you experience problems such as, low water pressure or lack of water when you turn on the faucet.

Water should be turned off at the water main leading into the home. This is the emergency meter shut-off closest to the house. Morgan Hill lines are gravity-filled and located below most homes. For this reason, we recommended that you shut off the water here because it may flow out of the water heater and back into the main line of you do not.

Many household products contain chemicals that are poisonous, corrosive, flammable and/or chemically reactive. These products can topple over and spill during an earthquake, causing a chemical spill inside the home. Garages, kitchens and bathrooms are common locations for hazardous household chemical spills.

Hazardous Household Products Include

Automotive fluids Household cleaners

Disinfectants Polishes

Bleach Liquid detergents

Photographic chemicals Pesticides / herbicides

Fertilizers Pet care products

Plant products Pool chemicals

• Store hazardous household products on the floor, on a low shelf, or in a locked cabinet that is securely fastened to the wall. If the item is placed on a shelf, install a guardrail to prevent the bottle or container from slipping off the shelf and breaking or spilling onto the floor.
• Store all hazardous household products in a secure place away from children, pets, flammable materials, sources of sparks or flames and your stored drinking water. The storage area should be safe and well ventilated. Store products in their original containers with caps that can be tightly sealed. If it becomes necessary to store a product in a different container, always clearly label the container with the product name and proper instructions. Store liquid and dry chemicals separately.
• Store photographic materials in clearly marked and dated unbreakable, non-metal containers.
• Store pool chemicals away from metal tools since the chemicals can cause corrosion.
• Do not store flammable liquids in glass containers and avoid storing flammable materials such as fuels. If you store gasoline for lawn mowers, etc., store the gasoline in a sealed, metal container.
• Do not store hazardous products in containers that resemble food containers.

When using hazardous household products, follow the manufacturers directions carefully. Most of them are made to be used one at a time and should not be mixed together. Mixing them can produce explosive reactions or toxic fumes. For example, mixing ammonia and bleach together creates toxic fumes.

Most home fires are caused by carelessness or faulty equipment. These fires can be avoided through simple preventative measures. There is always the possibility of fire after an earthquake because of broken or damaged gas lines. Fire following an earthquake has the potential of causing greater loss of life and damage than the earthquake itself.

• Remove debris from garage, attic, closets, etc.
• Store flammable liquids in proper containers, away from heat sources.
• Keep matches and lighters out of sight, away from children.
• Teach family members how to use a fire extinguisher.
• Purchase a fire extinguisher suitable for all types of house fires (A,B,C).
• Place fire extinguishers in an accessible location. Test them often and recharge after every use and as recommended by the manufacturer.
• Install smoke detectors throughout your home. Test them once a month and replace the batteries once a year.
• Use a screen for the fireplace and a spark arrester on the chimney to trap flying sparks.
• Do not overload electrical outlets. Replace worn or frayed cords.
• Keep your yard well groomed and your weeds cut.
• Develop an escape plan with two exits per room. Practice the plan.
• Teach your family to "STOP, DROP AND ROLL" if their clothing catches fire.

Most home fire deaths occur during the early morning hours when most people are sleeping. The heat and smoke from a fire are more dangerous than the flames. The heat can scorch your lungs and the smoke travels faster than the flames. Ninety percent of all fire deaths are caused by smoke inhalation.

• Install smoke detectors in your home. Working smoke detectors double your chances of surviving a fire. Do not remove the batteries if the smoke detector sounds.
• Place smoke detectors on the ceiling or high on the wall outside bedrooms. Also place them at the top of open stairways or at the bottom of enclosed stairs and near (but not in) the kitchen. Place a smoke detector on every level of your home.
• Check your smoke detector at least once a month to see that it is operating properly. Do not remove the batteries if the smoke detector sounds. A battery-operated smoke detector cannot alert you if the batteries are taken out.
• Clean your smoke detector once a month and replace the batteries at least once every year. HINT: Choose a date that is easy for you to remember. For example, each spring and fall when you reset your clocks, a birthday, anniversary, holiday, etc.

Smoke detectors are inexpensive and can be purchased at most hardware, home supply, discount and drug stores.

Stay low. Heat, smoke and toxic gases rise so stay low. If you can, cover your mouth and nose with a wet cloth. Test the door. Feel the door with the back of your hand. If it is hot, do not open it. Find another escape route. If it is not hot, open it slowly and carefully. EXIT QUICKLY. Once you are outside, stay outside. Go to a neighbor’s house to call 9-1-1-. Meet your family at the pre-designated meeting place. If your clothing catches on fire. STOP, DROP AND ROLL. Do not run. Running will only fuel the fire and cause it to spread. Cover your face with your hands and roll until the fire is extinguished.

A portable fire extinguisher can help save lives and property by putting out a small fire or containing the fire until the fire department arrives. Fire extinguishers are not designed to fight large fires. If you cannot put out a fire immediately with a fire extinguisher, leave the area immediately and call 9-1-1 from a neighbors house.

FIRES ARE CLASSIFIED INTO 3 TYPES

• CLASS ‘A’: Ordinary combustibles - paper, wood, cloth, rubber and many plastics.
• CLASS ‘B’: Flammable liquids - oils, gasoline, grease, solvents, lacquers and some paints.
• CLASS ‘C’: Electrical equipment and appliances - electrical sources which are still supplied with power.

In order to extinguish a fire, you must use the proper fire extinguisher for the type of fire. Using a fire extinguisher that is not rated for the type of fire you are fighting can make the fire worse.

There are several different types of fire extinguishers available. Some of them are:

• Multi purpose dry chemical (rated A:B:C)-This may be used on all types of fires and is the least expensive.
• Halon (rated A:B:C or B:C) - This is the most effective for computers and electrical equipment because it does not leave a residue.
• Carbon Dioxide (rated B:C) - This is used on most mechanical and electrical fires.
• Pressurized water - This is for Class A fires only. It can be dangerous if used on Class B or Class C fires.

To operate a fire extinguisher, follow the P.A.S.S. steps outlined below:

PULL the pin from the handle.

AIM the extinguisher. Point the extinguisher nozzle at the base of the fire.

SQUEEZE the handle. This releases the extinguisher agent.

SWEEP from side to side at the base of the fire until the fire is out. If the fire restarts, reactivate the extinguisher.

It is better to have several smaller extinguishers distributed throughout your home (kitchen, garage, etc.) than one large one that is hard to get to quickly.

Fire extinguishers must be checked periodically to be sure they are fully charged and ready for use. Extinguishers need to be shaken periodically to prevent the contents from settling.

Fire extinguishers need to be serviced annually by a professional. They should also be recharged or replaced after each use. Check the phone book for vendors.

One of the most important documents you should keep is an inventory list of your household items. The inventory should include: the item, description of the item, serial numbers (if applicable), purchase date, purchase price (or best estimate) and the item’s location in your home. It is also a good idea to supplement the written inventory with photographs and / or videotapes of our household contents.

List the items room by room. This will make it easier to add new items later on and will help to avoid duplication. This list should be updated at least once a year.

When you have completed the inventory, make a copy and send it to your insurance agent. Keep your copy in a safe location away from the home. You can store it in a safe deposit box or give it to a trusted friend or relative.